Between the camera shops on Lahore’s Nisbat Road, lies a tiny chaye wala dhaaba. Back in the day when we frequented the area looking for gear upgrades or to pick up prints or just to be out and about, the dhaaba was on the top of my list of essential stops to be made. The chaye, the ambience, local community getting small plastic bags of chaye packed on their rides home.
For any camera enthusiast from Lahore, the Nisbat-Chamberlaine Road junction in the heart of old Gawalmandi is a symbol of hope and prosperity. Of creative adventure, of growing up and taking control of your life. It was for me, at least. And it has always been.
Last week I was on assignment in Lahore, close to the area, documenting street vendors. To no one’s suprise I was met with routine hostility towards my camera. “Bhai tujhay hamara khokha hi mila tha? Ja kahin aur ja k video bana”. But not having lived in Lahore for the better part of 2 years, it unnerved me. Mostly because I’m outgrowing the city. I’m outgrowing its chaos and its traffic and its pollution and just the notion of ever actually living there again. And then that day for the first time since I’ve moved away I felt as if the city had finally started outgrowing me too. I was unnerved a little more. And I found myself wanting to go back to this dhaaba to feel my feet on the ground a little bit.
It didn’t disappoint.
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